Things to Do in Goa With a Self Drive Car

Most of what people come to Goa for is spread along the coast from Arambol in the north to Palolem in the south, with forts, churches, temples and a waterfall tucked inland. With your own car you can do a beach in the morning, a church after lunch and a fort at sunset without waiting for a cab at each stop. The trick is to group places by area, so the day goes on the places and not on the road.

North Goa Beaches, From Candolim to Arambol

Calangute and Baga are the busiest beaches in the state: shacks, water sports, shops and the nightlife around Tito's Lane. The approach roads are narrow and parking near the sand fills up quickly in season, so go before 10 am or park a little inland and walk the last stretch.

Candolim is the quieter neighbour, with Sinquerim beach and Fort Aguada at its southern end. Families and couples tend to base themselves here because it is close to the action but calmer in the evening.

Further north, Anjuna has the Wednesday flea market and cliffside cafes, and Vagator sits below Chapora fort with Ozran beach next door. Inland, Assagao is where many of the restaurants and boutique stays have moved. Keep going and you reach Morjim, Ashwem, Mandrem and Arambol, the quieter northern beaches where long stay visitors settle in for weeks.

Forts and Sunset Points

Fort Aguada above Sinquerim has the old lighthouse and wide views over the Mandovi river mouth. Chapora fort above Vagator is mostly ruins now, but the walk up is short and the view over the beaches on both sides is the reason to go. Plan it for late afternoon and leave before dark, as the path is uneven.

In the far south, Cabo de Rama fort sits on a headland between Agonda and Margao. It is quiet, with a small chapel inside and cliffs on the sea side.

Panjim and Old Goa in One Day

Start in Panjim with the white Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception and the painted houses of Fontainhas, the old Latin quarter. It is best seen on foot, so park once and walk. Panjim has one way streets and limited parking around the market, which is one more reason to leave the car in one place.

After lunch, drive to Old Goa, roughly 10 km away. The Basilica of Bom Jesus, which holds the remains of St Francis Xavier, and Se Cathedral across the road are part of a UNESCO World Heritage site. Dress modestly for the churches, and go mid afternoon when the tour buses thin out. Back in Panjim, Miramar beach is close by for the evening.

Ponda Temples and Spice Farms

Inland Ponda taluka is a different Goa: hills, plantations and some of the state's best known temples, including Shri Mangueshi and Shri Shantadurga. Several spice farms in the area run guided walks with a Goan lunch. It makes a good half day when the beaches are crowded, and the drive from Panjim is short.

Dudhsagar Falls

Dudhsagar is a tall, four tiered waterfall near Mollem, on the Goa and Karnataka border. Private cars cannot drive to the falls: you park at Kulem, about 70 km from Calangute, and the last stretch is in an authorised jeep. The flow is strongest during and just after the monsoon, and the jeep route can close in the heaviest rain, so check before you set out and start early. The season rules, the jeep booking and what time to leave are in our Dudhsagar by car guide.

An SUV or a 7 seater makes this day more comfortable for families, as the road to Kulem is long and you will be in and out of the car.

South Goa Beaches, From Colva to Palolem

Colva is the closest big beach to Margao and the Dabolim airport side: a long sandy stretch with a family crowd. Benaulim next door is quieter. North of Colva, Majorda, Utorda and Betalbatim form a calm resort belt, and to the south, Varca, Cavelossim and Mobor line the Sal river.

Right at the bottom of the state, Palolem is a crescent shaped bay in Canacona, roughly 40 km from Margao. Boat trips from the beach go to Butterfly Beach and nearby coves. Agonda and Patnem are calmer beaches close by, and Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary is a short drive inland if you want a forest morning.

Chandor and the Old Houses of Salcete

The villages around Margao still have grand Portuguese era homes. The best known is the Braganza House on the village square in Chandor, split into two wings owned by two branches of the family. Some of these houses are still lived in, so check visiting times on the day and expect a family member to show you round.

Plan by Where You Stay

Not sure which half of the state to base yourself in? Our guide to North Goa or South Goa by car goes through it.